A Long Time Between Posts!
Mood:  accident prone
A lot has happened since my last entry. In fact, I
had another long hospital stay and forgot
where I had created this Blog! Fortunately, I was
checking Google and saw the link to this page, so I
came here to update it.

I'll bookmark it so I can keep it current!

Let's see...what has gone on with the car...?

First, I guess I'll tackle the details of how I removed the intake manifold and polished it out. It was just a sand-finished cast aluminum, but now it shines like chrome. All in a couple of days' elbow grease.:-)

This is a shot of the manifold as I was removing it from the engine. You can see the casting numbers, the rough surface, and the big, unused boss in the middle. There's a lot of work to do to get this part looking nice, but the cost is near zero!

...and here's the intake manifold as it nears completion. The boss is gone, the casting numbers have been ground and polished off, and the whole surface has been smoothed by hand using emery boards.

While I was working on this project, I also decided to remove the home-made plugs that capped off the now-unused fuel injector ports. I removed the bolts that help down the chunks of angle iron that kept the plugs in place, then I pried out the 'plugs' the supposed 'mechanic' installed. To my surprise, the holes were plugged by nickels and sealed with bathtub caulk!

I cleaned up the mess, and also cleaned off the nickels, since they were just right to use for plugs. I re-installed the plugs using JB Weld as the bedding agent (it won't leak or fall out!)

After the JB Weld had cured overnight, I sanded it down smooth and filled up any low spots with regular Bondo. A good coating of red engine paint followed, then I plugged the unneeded bolt holes with Allen-head set screws.

This little job really cleaned up the top of the engine!

Next, I re-installed the newly-polished intake manifold, and started rebuilding the SU HS6 carburettors. I found a mixed bag of parts had been installed over the years, including mis-matched jets and needles (they control the flow of fuel through the carbs.) I removed all of the bathtub caulk that had been slathered over the adjustment screws, then I sat down and began polishing the more visible parts of the carbs. This includes the domed dashpots on the top, plus the float bowls on the sides.

After making sure that all the parts in both carbs matched, I set the preliminary adjustments identically on both carbs and installed them.

Here you can see the difference polishing makes to regular aluminum. Very pretty, and it cost virtially nothing.

Next, I tackled the system that held the air filters onto the carbs. The stock system was two bolts per carb, running through the air filter, then the carb flanges, then requiring a nut on the back side. The problem I was having was that any time I wanted to fiddle with the carbs, I had to remove the air filters, which usually meant one or more nuts dropped and lost forever in the bowels of the engine compartment, then at least 45 minutes work to get the nuts back onto the bolts and everything tightened down again. This setup located the nuts in the most inaccessible areas of the carbs, and was a royal PITA!

Before I installed the air cleaner filters I tapped some threads into the carb flanges so I could just screw a bolt into the carb and not have to use a nut at all. Then I made a set of air filter covers that would come apart (the stock ones were all one piece, so you had to buy new filters at $36 a set every 10,000 miles) so I could use inexpensive aftermarket filter elements.

I couldn't find what I wanted in the 6" diameter size of the old filters, so my plan of gutting the old filters and just putting in new elements didn't work.

Instead, I found some 6-3/8" filters with covers and backing plates at the local auto parts store. They were in the 'chrome dress-up' section, not the filter section.

The new covers used only one screw in the center to attach them vs. the two offset bolts the old ones used. To get around this, I made up a 'bridge' to span the carb throats, and welded a nut into the middle for the new cover screw to thread into.

Once assembled, the whole setup works and looks great!

---

My latest projects haven't been big ones, but I'm still trying to recover from my illness, so I spend very little time with the car.

I had been wanting to buy a 'DashMat' to help protect the very expensive padded vinyl dash pad. The heavy UV damage we get here in the desert will make short work of vinyl, so I had been religeous about keeping the dash pad covered with ArmorAll or Aerospace 303 Protectant.

I was in one of our local parts stores, and was just browsing around when I noticed they sold DashMats. I leafed through the catalogue not expecting to find anything, but to my surprise I found that they had a pattern for a Volvo 120-series dashboad. the 120 dash is a little wider than the PV's, but essentially the same, so I ordered a DashMat in Wine color, which is very close to te exterior color of the car. These DashMats come in a couple of different fabrics, but I've found that I really don't care for the cloth one. I opted for the one made from carpet, which is guaranteed not to fade.

The DashMat arrived about a week later, and I laid it out on the dash to check the fit. As I suspected, I had a couple of extra inches on each end, but everything else was perfect.

I held it in place and used a Sharpie to mark the back side where I'd need to trim it down, then I took it into the house and worked on it.

I had to free the edge binding, so I cut away the threads with a sharp knife. Then I used scissors to cut the DashMat to its new size, and then ran it through the sewing machine to put the edge binding back on. Naturally, there was an excess of binding, so that got trimmed off too!

Now it fits perfectly, and it only cost $29!

Another little project was a flame job for the car. You may know that I've named the car "Hot Stuff" after the 'Tuff Little Devil' in Harvey Comics.

I like the Retro Rod look and feel of the car, so I didn't want to do a huge flame job all over the hood and fenders. Instead, I found some 'flame' pattern vinyl 'pinstripes' and installed then onlto the stainless steel trim spears that run the length of the car.

Well, that's about it for now. We'e going to Las Vegas for a few days, so it will probably be next week before I can get back here.

My regular Volvo Page is located at http://www.geocities.com/steve_sms if you're interested n looking at the car in more detail.

OK, it's been a while, I was in the hospital!
Mood:  accident prone
Now Playing: How I Ended Up in the Hospital
Topic: Hospital Tale
OK, it's been a while since I've been able to write an entry. I have a good reason, though, as I've been in the hospital!

It all started on the 30th of November, 2004. I decided to share Thanksgiving with the family (The wife's side) so I drove over to Bakersfield in the Volvo on the 24th of November (the day before Thanksgiving.) I had dinner with my brother-in-law Clyde and his family, then I drove up to my Dad's place in Glennville, CA. to spend the night with him.

My 1st Step-mom, Betty, had passed away on the 19th of November, and the family was having a memorial service for her that Friday, the 26th.

I drove my Dad down the mountain and we went to the services, then we had lunch and I took him home again. I spent that night at my mother-in-law's (Jayne's) house since she was in Arkansas with Tarona, where they were having Thanksgiving with more family beck there.

On Saturday, the 27th of November I got up and packed my bag to go home again, and saw on the TV that the weather at the beach was going to be great that day, then close down and rain the rest of the week.

On the spur of the moment I decided that I'd drive home by way of the beach...Carmel, CA and points south as far as Ventura, CA.

Since I'm pretty banged up anyway, I only planned to look at the water, watch surfers, and do a little shell-shopping before having lunch at the Shell Cafe in Pismo and heading home.

A full day of travel - especially in an old, slow car!

I left Bakersfield about 8AM and drove out to I-5, then north to Hwy 46, and west again to Paso Robles where I stopped for breakfast at the Denny's restaurant. Normally I wouldn't get within 100 yards of a Denny's, but this particular restaurant is very good, and has been for as long as I can remember.

After breakfast, I got back on Hwy 46 and drove to Carmel, CA. I went north on CA 1 and took the turn-off for Moonstone Beach. Moonstone Beach is part of the San Simeon State Park, and Hearst Castle is just a few miles up the coast.

The weather was drifting down a light mist, just a little heavier than a fog, and kept me using my windshield wipers every minute or so. The clouds were starting to break up, promising a sunny afternoon.

As I parked at Moonstone Beach, I saw one lonely surfer who was using a parasail-type kite with his surfboard. This was really neat, since I'd only seen one of these rigs on TV before.

I got out of the car, got my crutches under me, and started around the front of the car. I intended to open the passengers' door and sit sideways on the seat to watch the surfer, the waves, and be out of the light rain.

As I came around the front of the car, I stepped off the paved parking lot surface and onto the red sandstone rock that makes a bluff along that part of the coast.

All the times I've been to Moonstone Beach, I've been able to walk down the rock to the sand. This time I couldn't have made that trip if I had wanted to, but apparently the 'rock' had different ideas.

What I had thought was stone all these years turned out to be really slick clay, and as soon as I stepped onto it, my crutch and foot slipped out from under me and I fell to the ground.

I didn't fall over the bluff, I just sat down hard - and heard something go "POP" just before my butt hit the pavement.

Instantly I was in severe pain, and I tried to straighten out or anything that would make the pain less.

I guess my efforts weren't the best thing for me to do, as I slowly slid from the parking lot and down into a gully that went down t the beach.

I only slid about 5 feet, but I couldn't get a grip on anything to help me get back to the parking lot. There was some short grass growing there, but it just pulled loose when I took hold of it.

I managed to get myself turned over, and I scrubbed the mud off my face and glasses so I could see a little. Actually, I was fairly comfortable if ou ignore the facts that I was 1.) Wet 2.) Muddy 3.) Injured.

I got the pain under control, but I still couldn't seem to be able to get back up to the parking lot. I watched the surfer for a little while between bouts of wiggling and trying to claw my way out of the gully.

After a while the surfer came ashore and parked his board and kite, and then he come over to me and asked me if I was husrt of just watching him. I thought that was a silly question, since I was wet and covered with mud, but I only told him I had fallen and couldn't seem to get up again.

He tried to pull me back up to the parking lot, but he couldn't get a purchase on the slope, either.

We found my (Tarona's) cell phone and cleaned the mud off it and called 911 - and got the only dispatcher who didn't know where Moonstone Beach was, and she repeatedly asked us to give her a street address and cross street. Apparently the fact that I was at a small beach with only one entry road wasn't enough.

While we tried to get her to understand where we were, we saw a fire truck drive by, and my surfer friend flagged them down.

The truck turned into the parking lot, and several firemen got out. Three husky young firemen took hold of me and started to pull me back up to the parking lot, and suddenly there were three firemen and me all struggling in the mud, trying not to slip further down the bluff!

On the next try, there were five firemen pulling on me, and we all made it back up the gully safely. Meanwhile, the Captain had called for an ambulance and it arrived about the time I reached the pavement.

Except for an ache in my hip (my leg and foot seemed to work OK) and all the mud on me, I felt OK, but the EMT's insisted that I go with them for a check at the local hospital.

We drove down to San Luis Obispo where I got and X-ray, which showed that the hip wasn't broken, but my pelvis was.

The doctor said he'd never seen or even heard of the type of fracture I had. Apparently it's nearly impossible to break your pelvis where I broke mine!

He recommended that I go to my own doctor, as there was nothing he could do for me. He thought that it would be OK for me to go home on my own if I could manage it without too much pain.

I was released with a shiny new pair of crutches (mine being stored in my car pending my return!)

A friend of my brother Mike's drove me from the hospital backup to Moonstone Beach, and I found my little car with all the glass intact and air in all the tires. It took us about 20 minutes for me to get out of his car and comfortably in mine.

I had him follow me as far as the nearest gas station, where he pumped my tank full.

I got back on the highway and headed home again - after a REALLY bad day - and got back to Bakersfield about 9:20 PM.

I went to my sister-in-law Carmel's house and got myself inside and undressed and into bed without toomuch trouble. Carmel and her husband Vernon were at a hockey game, and came home about 11:30 PM, I think.

I stayed there for three days, until I felt well enough to tackle the remaining 100 miles home.

I got home on Wednesday, 30 November, and stayed in bed until Tarona arrived home - more later -

Upgrades (continued from last entry)
Mood:  incredulous
Now Playing: ...or How I Plan To Make My PV544 Nicer!
I didn't get around to talking about my planned upgrades much in my last entry, so today we'll go into what I'd like to do to the car, and what is possible.

BODY & PAINT
You may have gathered that I'm not entirely happy with the current paint job. The Volvo PV cars are fairly easy to do body work on, since like many older cars you can easily remove all the fenders and other body panels much easier than on modern American cars.

I'm pretty good with a hammer and dolly set, so I expect that fixing the dents and dings won't be much of a problem. I haven't found any rust so far, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that none will appear when I start sanding down the current paint.

I haven't decided on what type of paint or what color(s) I want on the car; I'll probably have to go to a lot more car shows and look at paint jobs before I decide.

I do like the metallic red paint color that the car has now, and I've seen a House Of Color paint that is very close to it, with perhaps a little gold mixed in to warm the color even more. Again, selecting a paint color will take a while, but with all the other things I want to do to the car, I'll have plenty of time to consider it.

CHROME
As I noted before, the chrome is a mess. I don't plan to keep all the chrome trim on the car, but there are parts that I'll have to retain that will need repair and replating.

The rear quarter windows swing open (like older VW Beetles) and they have chrome frames. I'm thinking that these would look better if I paint them to match the car. There's also some aluminum trim around the glass in the doors that can be removed to make the car look cleaner.

A Look At The Bumpers And Grill

The bumpers and grill will have to stay; I really don't care for the bumpers being painted to match the car - that seems to me like a cheap shortcut in most cases, although I have seen some cars where it looks right.

The current grill has a wide chrome bezel around it, and this is one part that might look better painted, with a new billet grill to replace the stock expended aluminum grill.

There are additional 'override' bars mounted on the front and rear bumpers. Their purpose is to protect the bodywork in the event of a minor bump whenthe two cars' bumpers don't sit at the same height. These bars are part of the distinctive look of the Volvo PV cars, so I think I'll probably keep them in one form or another.

Overall the 1964 model has quite a bit less chrome than previous years, so all I have to do is decide what pieces I want to keep and whether to paint them or have them rechromed.

RUNNING GEAR/DRIVE TRAIN
The engine is strong, doesn't leak (much) and gives great MPG. The transmission seems to be fine, except for the shifter problem. The only problem with the drive train right now is that the rear end (differential) wasn't adjusted properly when it was overhauled. The gear lash (how the gear teeth meet each other) was set incorrectly and it howls pretty badly at highway speed. Also, the stock 4.1:1 gear ratio was kept (which was OK with a manual transmission) and the car's top cruising speed is only about 55-60 MPH right now.

While I like the Volvo B20 engine, it is a little aenemic and the rear end needs to be changed to a 3.07:1 for better cruising speed and MPG. The car uses a standard Dana model 27 differential, ut the gear carrier that fits the 4.1 gears won't carry the 3.7 gears I want. That means tracking down a Dana 27 carrier that fits the 3.07 gearset and has the correct number of splines to fit the Volvo axle.

One possibility is a complete drive train transplant. I considered getting a front wheel drive setup from a late-model car, but everthing I've looked at has the axles set too far back to fit the Volvo front wheel openings. I will admint that a hopped-up Honda engine would give me the performance and MPG I want, though!

The 'usual' PV transplant is a V6 or V8 engine and transmission from an American car. My Dad has a Ford V6 with carburation (Canadian built - the US model got fuel injection) that would just about drop right in.

A V8 would make a monster of the car - although it's a heavy car for its size, running 300+ horsepower through it would turn it into a screamer!

For now, though...the stock engine is doing fine, so I have time to think about it and gather parts.

BRAKES
The PV544 came with drum brakes on all four corners, while the 122 - which shared the PV running gear - got disk brakes up front. I understand that the 122 disk brakes are practically a bolt-on swap if you mount the caliper brackets on the opposite sides of the car. Apparently there is a little difference in the mounting holes between the cars, but swapping the brackets around takes care of that.

Power brakes were an option that my car didn't get. The brake master cylinder is mounted on the cars frame, which makes putting on anything but the Volvo brake booster a real job. I've seen a couple of the boosters for sale, but they looked pretty rough and came with no guarantee...

INTERIOR
Don't ever buy a car with black carpet! I have two (my PV and my wife's Dodge Dakota) and everything on your shoes ends up on the carpet, and you can see every speck!

I've taken out the capet mats from the front floorboards and put in some plastic mats to keep the dirt down. I put the carpet mats back in when the car is going to a show.

As I said before, the seat and panel upholstery is in good condition, with just a few small problems. Probably the only things I'll do here is to have the seat inserts changed to a better quality cloth and replace the backing boards for the panels.

My Dashboard & Gauge Panel

My wife thinks I should upgrade the front seats, but the car is too small for me to install seats with side bolsters and still wedge myself in behind the steering wheel. In fact, I need to re-work the slider mechanisms on the front seats so they slide back further, letting me get in and out of the car easier!

HEAT/AIR CONDITIONING
As I write this, I have PLENTY of heat in the car. In fact, I seriously need to shove some rags into the ducts to keep some of the heat out!

There are several hoses (or ducts, since they carry air) missing from the car. Under the hood there's supposed to be a duct about 5" in diameter that connects the heater core to cool air from in front of the radiator. That duct is missing, so I get a lot of pre-heated air being force-fed into the passengers' compartment. Add in the fact that both the defroster ducts are missing from under the dashboard, and you get a LOT of heat on your feet no matter how you set the controls.

I found some original Volvo defroster ducts that nearly fit the car; the length is right, but the diameter is a little small. I'll be making up some adapters to mate these ducts to the heater box, and that should take care of part of the excessive heat problem.

I already have the replacement duct for under the hood, but I can't seem to locate it. Not a serious problem until next summer, I guess!

One heater part that does need immediate attention is the blower motor. Over the years a lack of proper lubrication has ruined the bearings (bushings, actually) so it SCREAMS when I turn it on. I've removed it and tried to figure out how to get to the bad bearings to replace them, but the fan part is pressed onto the shaft and I don't have the correct tools to get it apart without damaging it.

I'm searching for a working replacement motor/fan assembly but no luck so far. I can install a 6-volt unit (it'll work fine, just run twice as fast as a 12-volt motor) and that's what I may have to do as a temporary fix.

After all, even though we live in the nice warm desert, I do need the defroster once in a while!

AC
My car came from the factory with no air conditioning. That was probably just fine in San Francisco, but out here where it hits 120+ degrees in the summer we really need that cool air!

The current B20 engine has the bosses (mounting holes) for an air conditioning compressor, but I haven't been able to find a good used system that will fit the radiator and interior.

My Dad says that he has a good after-market AC system from a Datsun (Nissan) pickup he had, all I have to do is find it in the storage room behind his machine shop. :-)

Regardless, air conditioning is 'way up there on my to-do list!

SOUND SYSTEM(S)
My car came to me with an older Kenwood AM/FM/Cassette stereo and one 4-inch Volvo speaker underneath the dashboard. What's up with that???

I have a really nice JVC AM/FM/Cassette/12-CD system that I'll be installing very soon. Right now I'm looking for speakers that fit the car and look right.

The trunk isn't really big enough to hold a couple of big amplifiers and bass seakers, so I need to find a high quality set of 6x9 speakers and risers I can put on the rear package shelf, and a matching set for the front kick panels.

I just bought an XM Satellite radio system, and that will go into the car when the stereo goes in.

Meanwhile, the Kenwood is GONE and a radio-delete panel is covering the holes in the dash. The car makes its own music as it goes down the road anyway, and I generally prefer to listen to the car than to music anyway. :-)

NAVIGATION
OK, I admit it: I'm a guy and I rarely ask for directions. Add in a little short-term memory loss and you'll find me lost pretty often. Usually that's just because I've forgotten where I was going!

Last year I bought a GPS system that runs through my laptop computer, and that's been a big help when I'm traveling in new areas. My software is from DeLorme, and it's voice-activated (I don't have to take my eyes off the road) as well as having an extensive database of businesses (like gas stations and restaurants) so I can find just about whatever I need and still not have to look silly be asking for directions.

I'm watching for a smaller unit (like the dash-mounted ones) but so far everything is still out of my price range. I did have an opportunity to buy a nearly new one for $200, but I was one e-mail too late.

MORE COMING SOON...

Getting a little deeper into the subject...
Mood:  a-ok
Now Playing: Volvo PV544 Planned Repairs & Upgrades.
Topic: Part Deux
In my last entry I gave a little of the history of the Volvo PV series of cars, and told you a little about my 1964 PV544. This time, we'll go a little deeper, looking at more of the GOOD, the BAD, and the UGLY.

There are a few minor problems with the transmission installation - not the trans itself, it works fine.

First, the speedometer cable that fits this transmission doesn't have the right connector to attach it securely to the speedometer. Every once in a while the speedo will quit, and I'll have to reach under the dash to poke the cable back in. The next time I have the gauge cluster out, I'll make an adapter so that will stop happening.

The other problem with the trans is that the builder installed a short-handled B&M shifter kit. This put the shifter in it's correct place on the floor, but in order to put the trans into Park or Reverse, I have to unbuckle my seatbelt so I can reach far enough to get ahold of the shifter handle!

I've been looking at B&M shifters on eBay, but so far I haven't found anything that will fit the trans and reach back far enough for me to work it safely.

The INTERIOR:

The interior was completely redone in 1991. THe headliner, door panels, and seat sides are good-quality black vinyl, with dark red cloth inserts in the door panels and seat.

Over the 13 years since the upholstery job was done, it's held up remarkably well. There is one small spot on the bottom of the driver's seat that is starting to crack (you can't really even see it yet) and the stitching is coming loose in a couple of places. That little problem will be simple to rectify.

The door panels are warping, and I think a cheap fiberboard was used for the foundation. Since the upholstery is still fine, I need to pull all the side panels and make new boards for them. Again, not a major undertaking.

A Little Of The Interior

The trunk was also (partly) carpeted in 1991, and the foundation for the bottom where it covers the fuel tank is made from an old cardboard box. I'm looking for matching carpet and I'll re-make the bottom piece and make up the missing side pieces to completely carpet the trunk.

There are some 'troughs' at the very rear of the trunk compartment that neatly hold my smaller toolbax. When I get around to re-doing the carpet job, I'll extend the trunk floor to cover these areas so I'll have a nice hidden place to keep those tools and supplies neccessary to driving an old car.

WHEELS & TIRES

The tires on the car now are nearly-new Michelin radials in a more-or-less stock size. I haven't actually memorized the size yet, but they fit the stock wheels well and look good. Since Michelin is one of the better brands I'll be keeping them on the car until I decide which aftermarket wheels I want.

The wheels are original to the car; 15x7 inch steel wheels with stock Volvo stainless steel hubcaps. The wheels have been painted fairly recently, but I need to pull them off and repaint them before long. The hubcaps were in fair shape, neeeding only a few dings tapped out and the center logo repainted.

I plan to go to nicer wheels after the paint and bodywork are complete. I've been looking at "Torq Thrust II's" since they have a nice vintage look. The only problem installing non-stock wheels is that they need 3-1/8" backspacing, whereas most American cars use 3-3/8" backspacing. The deeper American backspacing would cause the front wheels to rub on the upper A-arms in tight turns.

Of course, there are new wheel designs available nearly every day, so who knows what I'll decide on in the end?

BRAKES:

Probably the worst thing on the car right now. About a week after I got the car the brake master cylinder blew out, leaving me across town with nothing but a parking brake to get home on.

The repair kit was cheap, so I honed out the bore and put all new guts into it. Apparently water had gotten into the reservoir and turned the brake fluid into a gloppy gray mud, which also caused the cyliner bore to be eaten away over time.

Luckily, the damage stopped at the master cylinder, so the brake lines and wheel cylinders weren't damaged. It seems to work fine now - at least I won't worry about it failing any time soon!

Lately I've noticed a little squeal when applying the brakes, so I'm sure I need to overhaul the front brakes, at least. I priced brake linings, and they are only $21 for both the front wheels, so that job is scheduled in the next week or two.

Until then, the car won't be driven much.

MORE TO COME...

First Entry...What it's all about!
Mood:  cool
Topic: A little history...
OK, today I created this blog as an alternative to my traditional webpages, which are getting to be a pain in the posterior to keep updated!

Here's a little Volvo History:

Volvo began building cars in Sweden in the early 1920's and soon became known for their reliable and economical little cars. As you may know, Sweden is about as bad for driving as Alaska, being so far north and having l-o-n-g winters with lots of snow.

In 1944 (right at the end of WWII) Volvo came out with a new 'modern' car called the PV model 444. The 'PV' stands for 'PersonVagen,' just like 'VW' stands for 'VolksWagen' in German. The two cars had a lot in common; both were small (about the same overall size) and had low-powered 4-cylinder engines and would carry a family of four or five very cheaply and reliably.

The similarity stopped there, though - the PV looked very much like an American Ford sedan of the same vintage, although much smaller. We all know what the VW looks like!

As the years passed, Volvo made improvements to the design, including a larger, more powerful engine and better suspension. Outwardly, the body remained much the same, which was OK through teh end of the 1940's and into the early 1950's, when other cars of similar looks still rolled on the roads.

Finally, Volvo stopped production of the venerable PV444 in 1957, long after the body style had stopped looking modern.

An Early PV444

In 1958, Volvo began producing the re-designed PV544, which differed in looks from the PV444 only in the fact that it had a one-piece windshield in place of the two-piece front glass used in the PV444!

To say that Volvo was 'conservative' in its new design would be an understatement!

Of course, with all the major American companies now coming out with redesigned 'classics' like the Chevrolet SSR pickup (based on the 1948-1954 Chevy/GMC pickups) and Chrysler's '300,' we could almost say that Volvo was years ahead of the competition! ;-)

The 'new' PV544 got a larger engine (1600 cc, later pushed to 1800 cc) and lost some of its extraneous chrome trim.

The styling left a lot to be desired, though, and US sales fell every year until the model was discontinued in 1965.

To back up the drop in sales of the PV544, Volvo introduced the 120-series automobiles in 1960. The only difference between the PV and the 120 was the body design - all the mechanical components were the same!



A Volvo model 122 from about 1962

In Europe, meanwhile, the venerable PV remained a favorite among sports car buffs and serious racing teams. in fact, in 1963 and 1964 the Volvo PV544 won the title of World Champion Rally Car and won many rough races such as the Paris-Dakkar Rallye and even Pike's Peak!

In the late 1960's my Dad and I chopped up several of these neat old Volvos and made some very competitive dirt-track race cars! I sure wish I had all those old cars now!:-)

MY CAR:

I have a 1964 Volvo PV544 that I bought in the late spring of 2004 by way of an eBay auction. This was the second car I've bought at eBay, and I've been very happy with both of them.

My 1964 Volvo PV544

My first eBay car was a 1997 Ford Crown Victoria P71 Police Interceptor with only 47,000 original miles on it. I did some nice custom work on it, but I decided to sell it off because I was either going to get a lot of tickets (120 mph+ will do that!) or have a bad accident.

My 1997 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor

I used the money to bid on this Volvo, which I drove up to San Francisco, CA to pick up and drive home.

The lady who sold it to me had bought it in 1991 and had it restored and upgraded at that time. By 2004, when I bought it, it had clocked an additional 100,000+ miles but still looked pretty good and ran great!

When it was restored in 1991, it got new paint (Medium Garnet Red Metallic - a GM stock color)) and interior (black vinyl with red cloth inserts) and a later-model Volvo engine and transmission from a 1975 Volvo.

The new engine is a Volvo B20 (2000 cc) 4-cylinder and the transmission is a Volvo 3-speed automatic instead of the manual transmission the car left the factory with.

Originally, this engine was fuel-injected, but the injection system was removed and old-style Carter H6SU dual carburetors were installed. Don't ask me why; the fuel injection is a much more reliable system and doesn't have to be fiddled with every few weeks like the SU carbs do!

The car got an MSD6 electronic ignition module at some point, which cured the horrible ignition problems caused by the original LUCAS/BOSCH setup.

The B20 (2-liter) Engine in my PV544

When I went to collect the car, it had new Michelin radial tires all around and a new aluminized exhaust system.

THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE UGLY...

There's a lot that's right with my little car, and there's a lot that's just plain wrong, and some things that are downright ugly...

The body and paint aren't bad considering they have been exposed to weather and trafic for 14 years. The bodywork wasn't 100% perfect when it was done in '91, and the paint job is great - from 50 feet away!

There are some old dings and divots that should have been repaired in '91, and the painter obviously didn't know what he was doing - except for the top (flat) surfaces the paint is orange-peeled and not shiny at all. The paint should have been fine-sanded down smooth and covered with a clearcoat to make it shine pretty.

No attention has been paid to the condition of the chrome for many years, and nearly every piece is rusted, dented, or pitted. The good news is that it's all there and can be fixed and replated.

The interior work was first-rate, except that the upholsterer used plain cardboard to back the door panels, so that, although the cloth coverings are good, the boards need to be replaced due to warping. Probably S.F. damp??

The engine runs great, but there has been a problem with VERY DIM headlamps. At first I attributed this problem to Lucas (a British automotive electrical components company whose motto should be "Lighting By Lucas, Prince Of Darkness!"

After I went through the entire wiring loom and cleaning and soldering every loose connection the lights were actually WORSE!

Finally I discovered that the headlight bulbs themselves were the very old incandescent type, before halogens. I installed a set of Halogen bulbs, but I wasn't happy with the result - I hade put Xenon Gas bulbs into my Police Interceptor, so I guess I got spoiled. ;-)

I managed to find some glass headlight housings that fit the old 7" round fittings, and I bought Xenon Gas bulbs for them, then I added a set of super-powerful driving lights partly as a tribute to the marque's racing history, and partly to be able to see coyotes and burros at night before I ran over them!

Another problem was the gauge panel in the dashboard. When I drove the car home from San Fransisco to Ridgecrest CA all I had was a speedometer (accurate to within 10 mph) and an add-on temperature gauge under the dashboard.

The little trip odometer which I would normally have used to judge when to fill up with gas would run up to 99 miles and then reset itself to zero.

Luckily, the little car gave me a steady 30 mpg at highway speeds - a good thing when you only have a 9-gallon gas tank and no working fuel gauge!

------------END OF FIRST ENTRY--------------